Glue coming!

August 24, 2007

I took hookey from work and ran a few errands. Some were household related - got J. a new power supply for her computer. Others were a bit boatie.

Called Raka and ordered a gallon and a half of epoxy, plus fiberglass, epoxy pumps, and other paraphenalia.

Called South Jersey Lumbermans and checked prices on Okoune marine plywood. 4mm 3-ply Okoume is affordable and should be both plenty light and strong enough.

Looked at big box wood again, just to be sure.

There was nothing I really liked for wales wood. I think that I will get an eight-foot pine 1*12 to turn into oars. I need to find a lumberyard, because the best wales wood I have found are some 20-year-old mahogany boards I used to use for bookshelves.

I will have to rip wales, and I can't keep the bottom of my kerf straight!

Picked up:
small sticks to use for wales for the model
all manner of pale yellow, beige, and other buff-like paint chips to stare at.
a Stanley 4 1/2" block plane
a clamp vise to use to hold wood for planing.

This last was a brilliant idea, as I was otherwise planning to lug pieces someplace with a vise in order to do planing and finishing. Now I can just clamp the vise to the railing around the back deck, work away, and put the vise back on the tool shelves when I am done. It works too!

Finished fairing and rough sanding the sides, bottom, and bilges for the model. Now I have to cut frames and put the model together. Model should be finished by the first day of school, including gluing and decks.

On the big boat, I decided to use light pine to frame the transom and bulkheads. I went ahead and ripped that tonight. The pull saw is wonderfully fast, and if I rig a cutting guide I can even keep the top of my kerf straight. But the bottom wanders. Luckily the transom needs to be beveled into place, and I think I can plane my wandering saw cuts into a pretty good bevel.

But if I can't fix this technique problem, I won't be willing or happy to rip my own wales.

I also started cutting the stem out of a scrap 2*4 that I had been using to hold plywood off the ground for cutting. I will have to get another scrap, as this one was dry and had a nice run of heartwood in it. Rough cut one side of the triangle. Could not figure out how to cut the other side. So I turned the piece sideways, clamped it in the vise, put sacrificial bits of plywood just above the cut lines, and came at it sideways with the pull saw. I now have a board with triangular cuts in its side like the teeth of a very goofy comb. After I finish cutting the teeth I will pick up a wood chisel and knock them away. This should leave a rough cut that I will then be able to chisel, plane, and sand into shape.

Finally, did a little more reading on epoxy and marine plywood.

Epoxy on end seems is absolutely necessary to retard rot. I will be doing this.
According to Dave Chapelle, who actually tested this, Epoxy on plywood faces seems to do little to slow water intrusion or deter rot. Instead the glue on the plywood does most of the work. So coating plywood faces in epoxy does little by itself to protect wood.

However, anecdotal evidence suggests that plywood encapsulated boats do need less maintenance. It appears that the trick is that epoxy is a wicked-good primer for latex paint. An epoxy and latex boat has little more protection than a boat treated with traditional oil paint. But, because the paint job will hold up for many more years, it is a much lower maintenance boat than the traditionally painted, scraped, and repainted wooden boat.

I like low maintenance. I will certainly epoxy the outside of the boat. I may also do the inside.

And so to look for ripping fences and miter boxes for pull saws. If I can find some way to keep my cuts straight, I will be MUCH happier planning to rip up big boards.

Posted by Red Ted at August 24, 2007 11:57 PM | TrackBack